Acne is one of the most common skin conditions worldwide, yet it remains surrounded by misconceptions and frustration. While many people associate acne with adolescence, it can affect individuals of all ages—from teenagers experiencing their first breakouts to adults struggling with persistent acne well into their 30s, 40s, and beyond.

The good news? Acne is a medical condition that can be treated effectively. The earlier treatment is started, the lower the risk of long-term scarring and post-inflammatory marks.

At Amelio Clinic, we believe that understanding acne is the first step toward achieving healthier skin.

What Exactly Is Acne?

Acne develops through a combination of four interconnected mechanisms:

1. Abnormal Skin Cell Shedding

Acne-prone skin has difficulty shedding dead skin cells normally. Instead of being eliminated naturally, these cells accumulate inside the pores.

2. Excess Sebum Production

Sebaceous glands produce sebum, an oily substance that helps protect the skin. In acne-prone individuals, these glands are often overactive, producing more sebum than necessary.

When excess sebum combines with accumulated dead skin cells, pores become blocked. This leads to the formation of:

• Microcomedones (the earliest invisible acne lesions)
• Closed comedones (whiteheads)
• Open comedones (blackheads)

3. Inflammation

As the sebaceous gland becomes increasingly distended, the surrounding skin tissue reacts with inflammation. This results in red, tender bumps known as papules.

4. Bacterial Proliferation

The blocked pore creates an environment in which naturally occurring skin bacteria, particularly Cutibacterium acnes(formerly Propionibacterium acnes), can multiply.

The immune system responds, leading to pus formation and the appearance of pustules—the classic “white spots” associated with acne.

Common Misconceptions About Acne

• Acne Is Not Caused by Poor Hygiene

One of the most persistent myths is that acne results from dirty skin. In reality, acne develops inside the pores and sebaceous glands. Excessive cleansing or harsh scrubbing often worsens irritation and inflammation.

• Acne Does Not Only Affect Teenagers

Hormonal fluctuations, stress, genetics, skincare products, and certain medications can contribute to adult acne. In fact, adult female acne has become increasingly common.

• Diet Can Influence Acne—but It Is Rarely the Main Cause

Diet is not usually the primary driver of acne, but certain foods may contribute in susceptible individuals. Research suggests that high-glycaemic foods and excessive dairy consumption may aggravate acne in some patients.

However, acne is not simply caused by eating chocolate or greasy foods. For most patients, medical treatment and appropriate skincare remain far more important than dietary restrictions.

• Acne Is Not “Just a Cosmetic Problem”

Acne can significantly impact self-confidence and quality of life. Furthermore, untreated inflammation may lead to permanent scarring and pigmentation changes.

Early treatment matters.

Building an Effective Skincare Routine for Acne-Prone Skin

A tailored skincare routine forms the foundation of acne management.

The ideal routine depends on skin type, skin sensitivity, acne severity, and skin phototype.

Some of the most useful active ingredients include:

– Salicylic Acid

A beta-hydroxy acid that penetrates into pores and helps dissolve excess oil and debris.

Particularly useful for:

• Blackheads
• Whiteheads
• Oily skin

– Glycolic Acid

An alpha-hydroxy acid that promotes exfoliation and improves skin texture.

Useful for:

• Comedonal acne
• Post-inflammatory pigmentation
• Rough skin texture

– Retinoids

Vitamin A derivatives help normalize skin cell turnover and prevent pore blockage.

Retinoids remain one of the most effective acne treatments available.

– Niacinamide

Helps regulate oil production, strengthen the skin barrier, and reduce inflammation.

– Azelaic Acid

A versatile ingredient that can improve acne while also helping reduce redness and post-inflammatory pigmentation.

Because every skin is different, selecting the right combination of active ingredients requires individual assessment.

Medical Treatments for Acne

When skincare alone is insufficient, medical treatment becomes necessary.

Topical Prescription Treatments

Dermatologists frequently prescribe retinoid-based treatments such as:

• Tretinoin
• Adapalene (Differin®)
• Trifarotene (Aklief®)

These medications help prevent the formation of new clogged pores and remain the cornerstone of modern acne treatment.

Additional topical therapies may include:

• Benzoyl peroxide
• Antibiotic creams
• Combination treatments

Oral Treatments

For more severe or inflammatory acne, oral medication may be recommended.

Oral Antibiotics

These can help reduce inflammation and bacterial proliferation during flare-ups.

Isotretinoin

For severe, scarring, or treatment-resistant acne, isotretinoin remains the most effective treatment available.

When prescribed and monitored appropriately, isotretinoin can provide long-term remission and significantly reduce the risk of scarring.

Our Adjunctive Acne Treatments at Amelio Clinic

Medical treatment is often the foundation of acne management, but modern technologies can significantly accelerate improvement and enhance results.

At Amelio Clinic, we combine evidence-based dermatology with advanced laser and energy-based technologies to create personalized treatment plans.

Chemical Peels and Comedone Extraction

Professional glycolic acid peels help:

• Reduce pore blockage
• Improve skin texture
• Accelerate exfoliation
• Enhance the penetration of topical treatments

When appropriate, careful extraction of comedones can further improve congestion.

Hollywood Carbon Peel (Spectra XT Laser)

The Hollywood Carbon Peel combines a carbon mask with Q-switched laser technology.

Benefits include:

• Reduction of excess oil production
• Improvement of enlarged pores
• Reduction of superficial acne lesions
• Brighter, smoother skin

This treatment has minimal downtime and is particularly popular among younger patients.

DermaV Laser for Inflammatory Acne

One of our favourite adjunctive treatments for active inflammatory acne is the DermaV vascular laser.

Inflammatory acne lesions are highly vascularized. By targeting abnormal blood vessels, DermaV can help reduce inflammation and redness.

The treatment is also extremely useful for persistent post-inflammatory erythema (PIE)—the red marks that often remain after acne lesions have healed.

LaseMD Ultra Thulium Laser

The LaseMD Ultra laser creates controlled microchannels in the skin.

This technology can be combined with:

• Active topical ingredients
• Chemical peels
• Customized treatment protocols

Benefits include:

• Enhanced exfoliation
• Improvement of acne-prone skin texture
• Reduction of post-inflammatory pigmentation
• Improved penetration of active ingredients

Mosaic 3D: Our Newest Addition

We have recently added the Mosaic 3D laser to our treatment arsenal.

This fractional non-ablative laser provides a unique balance between efficacy and downtime.

For selected patients, Mosaic 3D can help:

• Improve active acne
• Reduce inflammation
• Improve skin texture
• Stimulate collagen remodeling
• Improve acne scars

It fills an important gap between gentler resurfacing treatments and more aggressive scar treatments.

Treating Acne Marks and Acne Scars

Even after active acne has resolved, many patients remain bothered by residual marks and scars.

These can be divided into several categories.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

These brown or darker marks are particularly common in darker skin phototypes.

Treatment options include:

• LaseMD Ultra
• Spectra laser toning
• Medical skincare
• Chemical peels

Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE)

These persistent red marks often remain long after the acne lesion has healed.

Treatment options include:

• DermaV vascular laser
• Chemical peels
• Medical skincare

Acne Scars

Not all acne scars are the same.

Different scar types require different treatment approaches:

• Ice-pick scars
• Boxcar scars
• Rolling scars

This is why every scar treatment journey starts with a detailed assessment.

Depending on the scar type, treatment may include:

• Mosaic 3D laser
• Fractional CO₂ laser
• Genius radiofrequency microneedling
• TCA CROSS
• Subcision
• Punch excision

In many patients, combining multiple techniques produces the best results.

Scar improvement is gradual and achieved over a series of sessions. While no treatment can completely erase every scar, significant improvement is often possible when treatments are carefully selected and combined.

Why Early Treatment Matters

The best acne scar treatment is prevention.

Treating acne early helps:

• Reduce inflammation
• Minimize the risk of scarring
• Prevent pigmentation changes
• Improve self-confidence
• Achieve clearer skin faster

At Amelio Clinic, we combine dermatological expertise with one of the most comprehensive laser platforms available in a private dermatology practice in Brussels. By combining medical treatments, advanced skincare, chemical peels, vascular lasers, fractional lasers, radiofrequency microneedling, and scar revision techniques, we can create highly personalized treatment plans for both active acne and acne scarring.

If you are struggling with acne, persistent acne marks, or acne scars, a consultation with one of our dermatologists is the first step toward understanding your skin and finding the treatment strategy that is right for you.

Because acne is treatable—and healthy skin is possible at every age.